Few ingredients, so each one matters. Here's what to buy, what to swap and what never to swap.
Cured pork jowl. It is rich and fatty, with a deep, peppery flavor.
Versus: Pancetta is leaner and milder, since it is pork belly. Bacon is usually smoked, which changes the dish.
π Look for a firm piece with a thick pepper or herb crust and plenty of white fat.
Used in: The house carbonara, Spaghetti all'Amatriciana
Salt-cured pork belly, not smoked. It is sold in slabs or small cubes.
Versus: It is a fair stand-in for guanciale, but less fatty and less rich. Bacon adds smoke, so it tastes different.
π Choose unsmoked pancetta with even stripes of meat and fat. Pancetta tesa (flat) is best for cubing.
Used in: The house carbonara, Spaghetti all'Amatriciana
A hard, salty sheep's milk cheese from Lazio and Sardinia. It is sharp and tangy.
Versus: Parmigiano is milder, nuttier and sweeter. Pecorino is saltier, so you need less salt in the pot.
π Buy a wedge and grate it fresh. Check the rind for the name Pecorino Romano DOP.
Used in: The house carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Spaghetti all'Amatriciana
A hard cow's milk cheese aged at least 12 months. It tastes nutty and savory.
Versus: Pecorino Romano is sharper and saltier. Generic 'parmesan' is often less complex.
π Look for the dotted rind stamp. Aged 24 months gives the most flavor.
Used in: The house carbonara
Small cured fish that melt into sauce. They add savory depth, not a fishy taste.
Versus: Salt-packed ones are meatier and more flavorful, but need rinsing and boning. Oil-packed ones are ready to use and milder.
π Pick plump fillets with a clean smell. Oil-packed in a glass jar is the easy choice.
Used in: Spaghetti alla puttanesca, Aglio, olio e peperoncino
Small, sweet Mediterranean clams with a mottled shell. They open in the pan and release a briny juice.
Versus: Manila clams are a close, widely sold match. Canned clams work in a pinch but are chewier.
π Buy live clams with tightly closed shells. Discard any that stay open or smell off.
Used in: Spaghetti alle vongole
Pickled flower buds of the caper bush. They taste salty, sharp and floral.
Versus: Salted capers have a firmer bite and truer flavor, but need rinsing and soaking. Brined ones are softer and tangier, and ready to use.
π Choose small capers. Rinse them well before cooking.
Used in: Spaghetti alla puttanesca
Small, wrinkly black olives from Gaeta in Lazio. They are mild, fruity and a little bitter.
Versus: Canned black olives are bland and rubbery. Kalamata is a good swap, though it is stronger and tangier.
π Buy whole, unpitted olives and pit them yourself for better taste.
Used in: Spaghetti alla puttanesca
Unrefined oil from pressed olives. It tastes fruity, grassy and a little peppery.
Versus: Plain olive oil is milder and lacks flavor. Butter and other oils change the taste.
π Pick a dark bottle with a harvest date. Use it within a year.
Used in: Aglio, olio e peperoncino, Spaghetti alle vongole, Spaghetti al pomodoro, Spaghetti alla puttanesca
Dried berries of the pepper vine. Freshly cracked, they taste hot, piney and citrusy.
Versus: Pre-ground pepper is dull and dusty. Toast whole peppercorns and crack them for the best flavor.
π Buy whole peppercorns that smell strong when you rub one.
Used in: The house carbonara, Cacio e pepe
Dried hot red chili, used as flakes or whole pods. It adds clean heat.
Versus: Fresh chili is milder and fruitier. Chili flakes from a shaker can be dusty and uneven.
π Choose bright red flakes or pods that smell fruity, not musty.
Used in: Spaghetti all'Amatriciana, Aglio, olio e peperoncino, Spaghetti alla puttanesca, Spaghetti alle vongole
A non-sweet white wine used to deglaze the pan. It adds acidity and depth.
Versus: Sweet wine makes the sauce cloying. A splash of vermouth or lemon juice and water can fill in.
π Use a crisp wine you would drink, such as Pinot Grigio or Vermentino.
Used in: Spaghetti alle vongole
A long, thin plum tomato grown near Naples. It is sweet, low in acid and has few seeds.
Versus: Regular canned plum tomatoes are more acidic and watery. Add a pinch of sugar if they taste sharp.
π Look for the DOP seal on whole peeled tins.
Used in: Spaghetti all'Amatriciana, Spaghetti al pomodoro, Spaghetti alla puttanesca
A fresh green herb, also called Italian parsley. It tastes clean and slightly peppery.
Versus: Curly parsley is blander and tougher. Flat-leaf is better for cooking.
π Pick bunches with bright, perky leaves and no yellowing.
Used in: Aglio, olio e peperoncino, Spaghetti alle vongole, Spaghetti alla puttanesca
A bulb of white cloves with a strong, savory bite. It turns sweet when gently cooked.
Versus: Garlic powder is flat and won't give the same flavor. Use fresh cloves.
π Choose firm, heavy heads with tight papery skin and no green sprouts.
Used in: Aglio, olio e peperoncino, Spaghetti alle vongole, Spaghetti al pomodoro, Spaghetti alla puttanesca
A soft, sweet herb with a peppery, minty scent. It is added at the end.
Versus: Dried basil has little flavor. If you can't find fresh, leave it out.
π Look for bright green leaves with no black spots. Tear them by hand.
Used in: Spaghetti al pomodoro
Long, thin rods of dried durum wheat pasta.
Versus: Bronze-cut pasta has a rough surface that grabs sauce. Smooth, Teflon-cut pasta is shinier and sauce slides off more.
π Look for a dull, dusty yellow surface and the words 'bronze die' or 'trafilata al bronzo'.
Used in: The house carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Spaghetti all'Amatriciana, Aglio, olio e peperoncino, Spaghetti alle vongole, Spaghetti al pomodoro, Spaghetti alla puttanesca